the Fare

Not-So-Traditional Traditions In my family, there was never a question as to what might be put before us on any given holiday, from Thanksgiving to New Year's Eve. Tradition dictated exactly what would be prepared, how it would be fixed, and on what it would be served. (We even had a specific vessel for mixing the gravy slurry - never to be used for another task). Now don't get me wrong - I love the comfort of old habits and of knowing what to expect, but after 40 some odd years, I do get the urge to mix it up a bit. As a compromise, I appease the family by mixing our age-old traditions with new ingredients, techniques, and decor. Growing up, the holidays inevitably meant brussels sprouts. Never my favorite - the mini cabbages smelled, in my opinion, and without a hefty coating of butter and salt, tasted rather foul. And then I had an epiphany - Chef Philip Dorwart, while chefing at Tryg's, had roasted brussels sprouts on the menu, served with caramelized shallots and blue cheese. I woke up the morning after tasting these little nuggets of goodness, and now they are an important part of all my holiday menus, and a far cry from the ones of my youth! Another staple of my childhood holiday fare was boiled rutabagas. Hmph. As far as I'm concerned, no amount of butter, salt or even bacon could help that out, so I opt to substitute another dish altogether. Keeping seasonal, I reach for the beets, and serve a roasted beet salad. Golden Fig Fine Foods in St. Paul has a great recipe on their website, as well as many yummy condiments to aid in the ease of party preparations. Of course, no holiday meal would be complete without the ubiquitous turkey. But does it really have to be a gargantuon bird injected with fats, salt and chemicals? Not anymore - the options for fresh, locally raised turkeys are much more abundant. Check out Wild Acres Shooting Preserve in northern MInnesota. With wild turkeys, geese, and even quail available to ship anywhere, you can be assured you will receive a healthy bird, raised on the farm from their own stock of eggs. I like to roast two small birds rather than one large one - they cook quicker, and stay moister. (You can even taste-test these extraordinary birds at the Progressive on Saturday, November 7 at the Hotel IVY - this will be an evening you don't want to miss!) For the finale, I call for help. Though our family traditions called for pumpkin pie, I'd personally rather have some cheese with that - cheesecake, that is. Muddy Paws Cheesecakes are amazing, come in too many flavors to list, and take all the worry out of dessert, which for this non-baker, is quite a relief. There are several varieties of pumpkin cheesecakes available, but why not start a new tradition altogether and try the Bourbon Vanilla or the Gingerbread White Chocolate - and enjoy a little new with the old. - Kiersa Notz, Creative Director, the Affair